The Nikon D400 Camera - Most Anticipated Digital SLR in Years

The world of photography and cameras is a highly competitive market, where each purchase can amount to several thousand dollars. As a consumer, if you're going to be spending such a large chunk of money, you're going to want to research the best option. Sometimes, this means researching your purchase months before you actually make it. That is not just good for your photos but good for your pocketbook too. Lately though, the camera thousands of people have been looking into has not even been officially announced yet. This camera is the Nikon D400 digital SLR.

Now why would a camera be so highly anticipated before it's even announced as being a possibility by the company that makes it? In this case, the speculation has gone rampant. The current camera model in the same line is the Nikon D300, which brought nothing short of amazement among those who use it. The D300 received stellar reviews from Nikon fanatics and critics alike, and became one of the best received cameras in recent history.

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Those high reviews gave people high expectations for the next product in the same line, and started the speculation of a Nikon D400 only a year after the D300 was released. Nikon tends to release the next model within a line between two and three years after the release of the previous model. This adds fuel to the D400 rumors as the two year mark comes on 23 August 2009.

The Nikon D400 Camera - Most Anticipated Digital SLR in Years

With that two year mark fast approaching, rumors surrounding the Nikon D400 are popping up like wildfire, and the speculation is coming from photographers and techies alike. Any fluctuation in the production of previous models gets quickly noticed, and thousands of avid Nikon watchers make posts on various related websites. Speculation and rumors on the specifications of the D400 range from being realistic but impressive, to completely out to lunch.

One thing everyone seems to agree on though is that after an amazing release in the form of the Nikon D300, there are very high expectations of the Nikon D400 camera. All Nikon fans and critics alike are going to be paying very close attention to the life cycle of this pending digital SLR. If Nikon can deliver on the D400 like they did on the D300 though, competitors like Canon, Kodak, and Pentax will all have a rough time claiming the market.

The Nikon D400 Camera - Most Anticipated Digital SLR in Years

For more information on news and rumors surrounding the Nikon D400 camera, feel free to visit Pat's website: Nikon D400 News.com

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Building Footings and How to Construct Them

I will try to cover the basics for installation of footings for various structures. Since footings are the basic foundation piece of any building, it is important that they be designed by a licensed professional who will determine the proper size of the footing. The local soil conditions and the size of the building itself will determine the physical size of the footing needed, steel reinforcement needs, if any, and so on.

Footings no matter what is intended to sit upon them such as a wall or a post must always sit upon virgin, undisturbed earth. When excavating for your footing with machinery (backhoe or a powered post hole digger), it is recommended that you dig to within a few inches of the actual depth you need and finish the last few inches by hand. This will prevent you from accidentally disturbing the earth below the bottom of your footing forms.

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IF you over dig more than you need, place the footing on that level, DO NOT place loose material back into the hole. Your footing will settle when the weight of the concrete is placed on it causing the entire footing to settle.

Building Footings and How to Construct Them

If you have already placed your foundation wall or post on the footing, the result will be a cracked wall or a sunken post. This of course leaves you with a structurally unsound foundation wall or a deck post that sags in one corner.

Footing Types-

Footings can be formed using scrap lumber, paper tubes, and in some areas, concrete placement is allowed directly to the earth if the hole is shaped properly and the soil is solid enough to hold its shape. Check with your local building department to see if this is acceptable. When a structure such as a home or a garage is built, it is common practice to open excavate the footing trench to allow for the forming and pouring of the footings. If this is your type of project, any sound scrap lumber in the proper dimension of the footing for example 2 x 8, 2 x 10, plywood, etc. is acceptable. Since the footings will be buried, knots or holes in the lumber are no concern as appearance is not important.

Multiple paper preformed round footing tubes set in place. Diameter required will be shown on your drawings.

Paper tubes most commonly used for decks can be installed, poured and later the portion of the paper exposed above ground can be peeled away to provide a neat finished appearance. As long as the forms are strong enough to hold the weight of the concrete until it dries and the bracing is strong enough to make sure the form does not move during placement of the concrete, you are good to go. Footings are usually square but can be rectangular, round or just about any shape you can form. If you have had your footings designed by a professional, your drawings will show the shape and dimensions of the footings required. Look at your drawings carefully to determine the size and number of footings required. You will most likely want to pour them all at once to save money on the concrete orders. If you are hand mixing the concrete, you may pour them one at a time. A typical footing size may show as 2'-0" x 2'-0" x 10". That will be a 2 foot square footing that is 10 inches high or deep. The drawing will also show the elevation of the top of footing needed. Usually this shown on the footing as (-4'-0" or -8'-0") and so on. This means the TOP of the finished footing is four feet or eight feet below the finished floor of the building. You must set the first floor elevation and then deduct the four feet plus the 10 inches to get to the bottom of the new footing. Sadly it seems it is never a nice even amount like -4'. Due to dimensional lumber sizes, masonry sizes, the elevation will read more like (-4'-4 5/8"). It's OK. It's just a little math work. You want to get it right though. The top of the footing will setup the finished heights of the entire rest of your building. Get it right. Making adjustments later on, if possible at all, can be a nightmare. If you have obtained a building permit for your work, the building inspector will check to see if you have set the form the minimum depth below grade required in your area. They will NOT check your elevation for you. That is your responsibility. Your drawings will tell you all the information you need to properly install the footing in the right place and at the correct elevation.

REINFORCEMENT-

Many footings require reinforcement to strengthen the concrete. Installation is a simple task requiring only a pair of flat nosed pliers and a roll of light gauge tie wire. Your drawing will indicate the size and number of rebar pieces required. If it reads 4-#5 E.W. this means you need a total of 8 pieces of #5 rebar. Rebar is based on 1/8" increments in size so a #5 bar is 5/8" in diameter. #6 is 3/4" and so on. E.W. is shorthand for "each way", not East-West..

Large rebar mat installed in a footing.

Lay the bars on the flat ground using 4 of the bars in each direction perpendicular to each other to form a mat with 4 bars facing East-West and 4 bars facing North-South, one set on top of the other. For a 2' x 2' footing, your bars will be 1'-6" long each. Concrete protocol requires 3" of clearance from the end of each bar to the edge of the concrete. (that is just the way it is).

Rebar installed in lineal footings.

Using your tie wire, tie at least 50% of the cross points of the rebar. Just wrap the wire around both bars, twist with your pliers to make the tie tight and cut off the wire. Keeping the mat as square as possible, tie enough of the bar intersections to keep the bars from separating when the concrete is placed on top of them. Place the mat in your form keeping it in the bottom 1/3 of the footing height. (again protocol). This will give the maximum strength of your footing concrete. You do not want the rebar to touch either the forms or the earth. The concrete must completely envelop the bars. The best way to set the rebar mat is by hanging it in your form. Using two pieces of scrap lumber long enough to reach across your formwork, just place each piece of lumber about 1/3 of the way in from each side. Using your tie wire, simply hang the mat by wrapping tie wire around the bottom bars of the mat and then tying it to the support lumber. Make sure the mat is in the bottom 1/3 of the footing when you are done. Another method is to pour concrete into the form until it is 1/3 full, level out the concrete and then place the mat into the wet concrete. Complete filling the form until you are done. This is easier but if working alone it is just another task you have to do besides pouring the concrete. Vibrate your form by lightly tapping on the sides of the form with a hammer to consolidate the concrete and remove any air pockets. Finish off the top of the footing level with the forms and you may be done. If you are using round paper for tubes for a deck you may need to set an anchor bolt for the post hanger. If you are pouring a lineal footing for a wall,

Typical lineal footing forms in place.

You may have to install a "key" slot and rebar for the wall supports. Look for what is called a "section" on your drawings. If a key slot is required it will show it. This can be formed with a 2 x4 hammered down into the wet concrete and slid along to form the key slot. The concrete must be wet enough but not too wet or the slot will refill and not too dry or you won't be able to form it. A little hand work with a trowel will do a fine job.

Shows lineal footing with key formed to lock foundation wall in place.

Many foundation walls require what is called rebar dowels to be placed in the footing. You will want to have these dowels pre-bent and ready BEFORE YOU START POURING YOUR CONCRETE. A word of caution here as well. Splattered concrete can cause severe damage to your eyes and skin. Wear safety glasses or goggles whenever working with wet concrete. Any concrete you get on your skin should be washed off as quickly as possible to avoid skin burns.

Shows footings formed with rebar dowels tied into place before concrete is poured.

Dowels are typically bent in an L shape with a short horizontal leg and longer vertical leg. Your drawing will tell you how long these legs need to be. An example will read #5 dowels, 4'OC, 12"x36", I.F. This means you are to use # 5 rebar (5/8"), bent with the short leg 12" long and long leg 36" long. The vertical rears will go 2" in from the inside face of the wall.

They are to be placed 4' (48") on center starting from the centerline of the wall in one corner and proceeding around the foundation. When you come to a corner you will have more than likely, less than the 4' spacing so just add an extra bar at that point so each corner has a bar in the center.

Keep the bars as straight as possible. The advantage to installing them before the pour is you don't have to rush around trying to get them in before the concrete is too dry. The disadvantage is you have to finish the top of the concrete around each bar. "Wet sticking" rebar is sometimes frowned upon by architects if the concrete is moved around too much. If you carefully insert the rebar in the wet concrete making sure you have full contact with the concrete If is usually Ok. You cannot have holes around each bar when you are done. Layout and marking of the footing forms as to where the dowels go, is a must. You simply will not have the time nor likely the energy to do it after the concrete is poured. Once the concrete is hard, it is too late.

If the dowels are not installed your building inspector will reject the work.

Leveling of forms-Before you are ready to pour the concrete you must make sure your forms are level. Using a simple 3 point level (Nikon) and a ruler, you can with a helper take elevations every 5-10 feet or so and make sure all the forms are the same height. The footings may have a step or two in them which is determined by the grades on the site. Make sure each area is level within itself. If your foundation is masonry, the steps normally measure no more than 16" high. If the foundation is poured concrete, larger steps can be done. Ask your architect for the maximum step allowed. In any case, each step must be level to allow for a level surface for the foundation walls to sit upon. In warmer climates footings may sit almost on grade. In colder Northern climates, footings may be 4, 5 or even more feet below the ground to the bottom of the footings. This will protect against frost heave during very cold weather.

CLEANUP-

Often ignored is the cleanup portion of footing work. It is required and foolish not to, to remove all lumber from the excavation before you backfill.

In many parts of the country termites are a serious problem. Wet wood buried underground is a tasty morsel for these guys and when their done eating whatever is buried, they will move UP into the building above. Remove all wood, paper, tar buckets or other items that are not made of earth. You want a clean excavation when you start backfilling. I have failed more than one job over the years because the builder thought the open excavation was a landfill. The unknowing future homeowner inherits a potential problem and the builder saves on cleanup costs. Take the time to do it right. Tar bucket residue can weep into the soil and if you are on a private well, could contaminate your drinking water.

Closing

Footings are a critical part of any structure that is going to sit upon them. Take your time to get them located properly, set at the correct elevation and the rest of your work will become much easier to do.

As a purchaser of this e-book you are entitled to one months FREE email support for your project. I cannot offer structural information as that must be done by a licensed professional in the state you reside in but I can offer many tips and tricks or if you need additional information on a particular item regarding footings, feel free to email me and I will get right back to you as quickly as possible.

Every area of the country has its own design criteria for different kinds of footings. Warmer areas allow for the use of pre-made footing blocks available at big box stores. Your local building department will gladly advise you as to the minimum required depth of

footings in your area.

Pete

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

Building Footings and How to Construct Them

Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

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Women in Nylon Stockings

Nylon stockings are intimate accessories. This will look good before turning the lights out with the partner. But these things are usually worn under the skirt.

Some companies have this as part of the uniform code like nurses who work in the hospital. But many women choose to have it on because it looks good with the outfit. This is used either in the office or when wearing one of those short skirts to show off to men in a party.

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Nylon stockings can either be until the ankles, a little above or below the knee. A good example could be the one from Christian Dior that is called the Thigh Highs. There are 4 sizes so this can be used for those who have small or big hips and costs .50 for each, which are available in only black and white.

Women in Nylon Stockings

Fredericks of Hollywood is also another brand that offers a variety of nylon stockings to customers. A good example is the two tone Cuban inspired heel stockings. It has a seam from the hips until the heel.

The only drawback is that this is only available in nude/black. There are other brands that offer this in other colors, which is worth checking out. It is available in small, medium or large and costs per piece.

Nylon stockings are not only sold in the store but also online as well. This allows men to shop for that special someone without feeling awkward of going to the lingerie department and asking the sales clerk for assistance.

Having a sample or knowing the size of the partner's hips will be a good idea to avoid returning and exchanging it for the right one.

Given the increasing demand of nylon stockings in the market, the woman can choose from a variety of colors and styles. Some will stay up by itself but those that don't will require the use of a garter belt that has to be hooked to the girl's underwear.

Most of the nylon stockings sold for women are in single packs. Some brands have promotional offers that allow the customer to save a few dollars when at least three are bought instead of just one.

Both men and women should take advantage of it because even if nylon stockings last long, these things will run due to wear and tear prompting the individual to again at the regular price.

Women in Nylon Stockings

Low Jeremy maintains http://stockings.articlesforreprint.com This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included.

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Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

Which brand of memory card should I buy? Does it make a difference? How big of a card do I need? Is one large card better than multiple small cards? Does the speed rating of the card matter? This article was written to help answer these exact questions.

Cameras and lenses can be easily replaced, especially if they are insured. Those images from the three-week safari, your relatives wedding, or your summer long European tour, simply can't.

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Memory Card Reliability

Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

The first thing to look at is the memory card itself. Most entry level and amateur level cameras use SD (Secure Digital) memory cards. Most professional and prosumer cameras use CF (Compact Flash cards). In general, Compact Flash cards tend to cost more, but offer higher read/write speeds, larger capacities and be less prone to failure than the Secure Digital Cards. This article will focus on those two card types.

While there are many manufacturers of memory card out there, the top tier, and the choice of the vast majority of pros, are SanDisk and Lexar. These are also the only two brands than Nikon tests with and recommends.

SanDisk claims a MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure) of over 1,000,000 hours - that's almost 115 years before the average card fails. Their cards are rated for over 10,000 insertions. A sophisticated defect and error management system can rewrite data from a defective sector to a good sector on the fly. SanDisks built in Error Detection Code and Error Correction Code to try to recover corrupted data automatically.

The regular (blue) SanDisk CF card has an operating temperature range from 0°C to 70°C (32°F to 158°F). The Extreme III cards are rated with an operating range of -25°C to 85°C (-13°F to 185°F). They can withstand a shock of 2,000G (or about a 10 ft drop onto a concrete floor). Hard-drives can only withstand a 200-300G shock - a drop of less than 2 foot.

SanDisk quote less than 1 non-recoverable error in every 10^14 bits read (or one error for every 12.5 terabytes of data - or one out of every million 12.5Mb RAW files, or one out of every three million Fine JPEGs).

Overall the reliability from their Compact Flash cards is significantly better than even the best hard drives on the market today.

One important note: there are many fake SanDisk cards in the marketplace. Some of these are cheaper manufacturers cards with SanDisk stickers and packaging. Some are custom made with no quality control and put into SanDisk looking boxes. Our best advice, is to only buy from a reputable retailer like Amazon.com or BHPhotoVideo.com, and avoid buying memory cards that appear too cheap, are for sale on eBay, or some market stall while traveling etc - stick to reputable sources that are authorized dealers.

However, even with the best cards, errors do still occur. There are many, many millions of these cards in circulation today. Look at any DSLR internet forum, and you'll find reports of lost images. Most of these you'll note are either with cheaper cards, potentially fake SanDisk or Lexar cards, or caused by user error. If you remove the card from the camera before the camera has finished writing the data, you'll lose images that the camera hasn't completed writing. It's very easy to accidentally format a card, especially if you use multiple cards. There are reports of certain software applications importing the images from the card, then the user deleting the card, only to find that the application only imported the thumbnail JPEGs that were embedded into the RAW image files, not the actual RAW image files. In virtually all these cases, most of the images are recoverable using data recovery software.

Bottom line, trying to save on a memory card for a camera/lens system that costs hundred or thousands of dollars makes very little sense. If you stick with the top tier brands, memory cards are very, very reliable, and they are far from the weakest link in the typical users workflow.

Card Sizes: One Large Card vs. Multiple Small Cards

How much card space you need depends on what format you shoot (RAW files are significantly larger than JPEG's), and how many shots you are likely to take between getting to a computer to clear off and backup the cards. If I'm traveling, I've usually got a laptop with me so I can backup my cards every evening. Some days I may only take a dozen shots, but it's also not unknown for me to take several thousand shots in a day if I'm at an event with a lot of action.

On a Nikon D200 containing a blank 8Gb SanDisk card, the camera claims 480 shots are available for RAW shooting. This number is usually conservative, as the size of the RAW file varies. My Nikon D300 regularly gets around 700 shots on an 8Gb card using Lossless Compressed NEF files. If you switch the D200 to Fine JPEG, it shows 1,300 shots available. If you select RAW plus Fine JPEG, it shows 354 shots available. Your cameras manual will contain a table showing similar data for your particular model.

There are conflicting opinions as to if one large card is better, or if many smaller cards are. The argument for smaller cards is, that if your card fails or you drop your camera in the ocean, you lose less data. The argument for larger cards, is card failure is very rare, and largely recoverable. You also risk a much higher chance of dropping a card, getting it wet, sitting on it, losing it, accidentally erasing it, forgetting it or leaving it in your hotel room if you are managing multiple cards.

There are other things to consider also. Uploading to computer can take a long time - putting in one large card and leaving it to upload is a lot less work than swapping multiple smaller cards and uploading each one manually. A 4Gb size card is ideal if you back up to DVD - it's the largest card size that will completely fit onto a DVD, making the back up a simple drag and drop.

There is no right or wrong answer, we've standardized on 8Gb Compact Flash cards - mainly because they hold a decent number of shots and usually offer the best price per gigabyte. I'll carry up to ten of them with me when I'm traveling. As larger cards become more common and prices drop further, we'll go to larger sized cards. The most important thing is to make sure you have enough memory card space to last you until you can upload them to a computer - it's better to have more than you need than not enough.

Card Speed: How Fast Do I Need?

Memory cards come in a wide range of speeds, and the faster the card, the more expensive. How fast of a card you need depends on a number of items:

Is how long it takes for the images to upload to a computer important to you? If you are uploading via cable from your camera, your upload speed is limited by the camera. If you are using a CF of SD reader, you are limited by the speed of that. For the absolute fastest uploads, use a card that supports UDMA (like the SanDisk Extreme IV's, SanDisk Ducati's, and Lexar 300x) in a FireWire reader. For example, the SanDisk Ultra II 8Gb card claims a 15 Mb/second read speed, so that would take almost 9 minutes to upload on an optimally configured system. The 8Gb Ducati card claims a 45Mb/second speed, so would take less than three minutes to upload.Which camera do you use? The Nikon D200 does not support UDMA, so even though an Extreme IV is faster in it than an Extreme III, the card is much slower than it is in the D300 - the D300 can handle a much faster data transfer rate. How likely are you to fill the camera buffer? If you shoot landscape or take several minutes to compose each shot, then you don't need a fast card. If you are shooting non-stop action and taking sequence after sequence at 8fps, you'll need as fast a card as possible. Cameras like the D200 and D300 have a big enough on board buffer to store about 17 shots if you are shooting RAW. Once you've taken a picture, the camera writes it to the memory card and erases it from the buffer as soon as it can. Once the buffer is full, the camera won't let you take another picture until it's written an image to the memory card and made room in the buffer. If you are using an Ultra II card in a Nikon D300, this means you may only be able to take a shot every 2-3 seconds when the buffer is full. If you are using a Ducati card, you may still be able to manage a couple of frames a second. Then if you stop shooting, the Ultra II may take a minute or so to get the buffer cleared and all written to the card. The Ducati card will allow the camera to write the images to the card and clear the buffer in seconds.

If you take your time to compose each shot, and upload speed isn't important to you, then memory card speed isn't important. If you are shooting action or sports and use a rapid frame rate frequently, then you want the fastest card, and camera, that you can afford.

Data Recovery Whether you've accidentally removed your memory card while the camera was still writing, deleted or formatted the wrong card, or the card has developed an error, it's usually possible to retrieve some, if not all of the lost data.

The higher end cards from both SanDisk and Lexar come with their respective data recovery software packages on CD. SanDisk's is called RescuePro, and Lexar's is called Image Rescue. Both are reputed to be very effective. A third part solution called PhotoRescue is also widely used and reputedly better than both SanDisk's and Lexar's offerings, fortunately we've not had the need to find out.

In Summary

Your photos are infinitely more important than your camera gear. By selecting the right memory cards and taking a few simple precautions, you can potentially save yourself from losing irreplaceable photographs due to the unforeseen events that hit us all occasionally.

Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

Steve Denton has been a Photographer using Nikon equipment for over 20 years, since he bought his first Nikon F Photomic.

He also runs the web site http://www.DentonImages.com, a web site dedicated to DSLR photography, covering the latest news from the major manufactures including Nikon, Canon, Leica and Hasselblad, as well as equipment reviews, articles, travel and galleries.

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Grand Theft Auto IV - Cell Phone

The cell phone is one of the coolest new features in Grand Theft Auto IV. Simply push UP to bring up your cell, and then push UP again to view the keypad. From the keypad, you can now devastate Liberty City with your arsenal of cheats.

Many of the cheat codes that you can enter may prevent you from activating several achievements in the game, so you won't really want to use them on your 'proper' save game. Start up a new game & pop in these phone numbers and you can instantly feel like a gangster!

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Punch in 4865-550-100 to unlock the Weapons Tier 1 cheat. This cheat will activate the baseball bat, handgun, shotgun, MP5, M4, sniper rifle, RPG, and grenades for you to create instant destruction. Or try 4865-550-150 for the 2nd tier of weapons which include the knife, Molotov cocktails, handgun, shotgun, Uzi, AK47, sniper rifle, and RPG. Both tiers of weapons will provide you with hours of non stop mayhem!

Grand Theft Auto IV - Cell Phone

Want to look around Liberty City before you open all the islands? Type 3595-550-100 in to your cell phone to spawn an Annihilator police helicopter. Watch for other helicopters as the Police & Army will be hot on your tail. But the Annihilator has weapons on board so give them back a taste of their own medicine for giggles.

Need a car in a hurry? Niko can call up many different vehicles via his cell phone. Dial 227-555-0100 to instantly spawn a FBI Buffalo or for a Super GT try 227-555-0168. If in need of a water vehicle dial 938-555-0100 to receive a Jetmax for that wet getaway. If you would rather strap on your helmet and tear off on a Sanchez try 625-555-0150.

There are many cheats that you can enter in your cell phone including other vehicles and the ability to lower or raise your wanted level if you feel the heat is on or not enough. You can also give Niko full health, ammo and armour or even change the weather conditions.

Grand Theft Auto IV - Cell Phone

For more cheats, hints, tips & unlockables for Grand Theft Auto IV visit [http://www.bigfatcheats.com]

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Which Gun is Best For Coyote Hunting

What firearm will work best is always one of the most heated discussions in coyote hunting circles. Whatever gun a guy has, it is the best. You'll hear stories of 200 yard kills with 22 long rifles and coyotes that had a good hit with a 30-06 that sped away never to be found. The best coyote hunting firearm is probably someplace in between these two examples.

Your first decision is between a rifle and shotgun. If you find yourself hunting in the thick stuff and your shots are 40 yards or less you should consider using a shotgun. I use a 12 gauge Mossberg 835 with either #4 buck or a load called "deadcoyote." This combination will easily anchor a coyote out to 40 yards.

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Which rifle and which caliber is also a heated topic of discussion. I believe the caliber of gun is a personal preference. Some of the more popular calibers are .22-250, .204 Ruger and .223. I have firearms in all these different calibers and have killed coyotes with each. I can't say one is better than the others. They will all get the job done as long as the distance is appropriate and the shot placement is good. At the moment, my weapon of choice is a DPMS LR243. This is an AR style rifle chambered in .243. This caliber will definitely anchor a coyote and if you select the right bullet, much to my surprise, it is quite fur friendly.

Which Gun is Best For Coyote Hunting

There is also considerable discussion over using a bolt style gun or the increasingly popular AR style. I have used both and I will tell you right now that I'm a diehard fan of the AR for coyote hunting. Sure, the bolt gun will get the job done as effectively as an AR and I've killed many coyotes with a bolt gun. My first coyote hunting rifle was a bolt action .22-250. I really like the accuracy of the new style ARs and the ability of a quick follow-up shot on multiple coyotes and, yes, even on that occasional first round "coyote fever" miss.

The bottom line is, you want to carry a firearm that you are comfortable and confident with and that will dispatch a coyote quickly and efficiently. You'll want to understand your gun's shot distance and your own shooting capabilities. Your gun needs to be accurate and dependable with a proven track record. Any of the guns and calibers mentioned above would be a great place to start.

Which Gun is Best For Coyote Hunting

Todd Sullivan (dogbreath) is a diehard coyote hunter and author with over 12 years of coyote hunting experience. He is also the author of a free beginner's guide to coyote hunting. If you would like to learn more about coyote hunting please visit http://www.FreeCoyoteHuntingGuide.com.

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